Thursday, July 22, 2010

coming down the mountain

While I can press pause on the weights on my mind for a few days by way of mojito consumption, cooking delightful meals for the family in a (well-appointed mind you!) double wide out in the middle of mountainous nowhere, feeding posses of dumb but cute white-tailed deer cantaloupe, and soaking in the jacuzzi... I can just as easily pick up right where I left off in a neck-deep hole of worries that I can't really see the end of just yet. So I have a cloud over me and it makes me not want to write just now. So I won't. In the meantime, enjoy some photographs from the weird getaway.

From the Eckley coal pit... where the black sand beaches of Vík, Iceland meet the birch forests of Sweden.

fire and ash
fire and ash © Laura Kicey

greens and white
greens and white © Laura Kicey

coal and sky
coal and sky © Laura Kicey

dress this earth
dress this earth © Laura Kicey

hill and dale
hill and dale © Laura Kicey

divining
divining © Laura Kicey

sweden meet vík
sweden meet vík © Laura Kicey


In the neighborhood of where I laid my head for a few nights...

launch
launch © Laura Kicey

my deers
my deers © Laura Kicey

the coop
the coop © Laura Kicey

Out toward Bloomsburg, a hoarders paradise, some nice palimpsest, and an abandoned miniature golf course moments before the lightning touched down and drove us away cowering....

first inn flight
first in flight © Laura Kicey

slot machines / condoms
slot machines / condoms © Laura Kicey

shut eyes
shut eyes © Laura Kicey

holding a candle to it
holding a candle to it © Laura Kicey

argyle
argyle © Laura Kicey

amenities hall
amenities hall © Laura Kicey

home on the range
home on the range © Laura Kicey

rhododendron road
rhododendron road © Laura Kicey

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Tuesday, April 13, 2010

release

Some of you longtime readers may recall when I originally encountered Violet Hobaugh fours years ago (almost to the day!) - out near Palmyra, PA. (I won't retell the entire tale, but if you are interested do check the old blog posts above or looking through the set I made on flickr here which includes some local media clippings and photos I have not made public.)

rot spray
rot spray © Laura Kicey

premeditation

When I heard in December that she had passed away, I was saddened to hear it, knowing I would never be able to meet and speak to a woman who had made such an impression on me, and really also my work. I had been closely following her life by way of stories passed on to me by locals I knew who had met her, random commenters here and on flickr, and through occasional news items on her. She always seemed such an immortal character, who had seen and experienced it all and carried on no matter what.

on the fence
on the fence © Laura Kicey

It felt like the next logical step after her passing would be for me to revisit her property - nearly 3 years since my last visit - and document it before it was either razed or severely vandalized. I had always seen it in winter in past, so what struck me first was how the property was transformed by the flowering trees and lush ivy that covered just about everything, never had it seemed so very alive.

the uneasy chair
the uneasy chair © Laura Kicey

While being able to walk around freely I did discover some signs I had never seen before, I was surprised by how much of what I was familiar with was now completely obscured by the ivy and what wasn't covered with ivy was now significantly faded. In a strange way, it felt to me like the anxieties and accusations that once consumed her life and thoughts had peacefully ebbed away at the end. I was surprised to see that the site was almost completely undisturbed, though a few signs she had once had propped up were now missing.

reclaimed
reclaimed © Laura Kicey

lawless
lawless © Laura Kicey

fear to tread
fear to tread © Laura Kicey

vandalisom
vandlisom © Laura Kicey

snow white
snow white © Laura Kicey

When Goldberg and I first pulled up behind the main house, I immediately noticed her pile of rusted vehicles, the front cabin of a tractor trailer, a small car, and several tractors. Around each of the tractor tires, she had painted permutations of the word 'vandalism/vandalisem/vandlisom'. In the backseat of the car and the trunk/hatchback area there were cushions, pillows and tattered blankets, covered with mouse droppings, where it appeared she may have slept. I suspect that during the two years she was living in her treehouse, she may have slept in the car on especially cold nights so that she could remain close by and ever-vigilant.

back seat bed
back seat bed © Laura Kicey

dos equis
dos equis © Laura Kicey

pledged
pledged © Laura Kicey

The one door that appeared as though it would lead into the house was marked with "REWARD FUND PLEDGED" and a tiny illegible metal sign. None of the doors allowed us entry, but I think it was for the best. Having lived a long time without electricity and running water, I imagined the smell would have been fairly intense and there were not many windows to let in any light either. Sitting on the front porch among the piles of mail, coffee cups, and tiny cartons of 1% milk, there were many plastic buckets that smelled as though they were used as makeshift commodes, and a wooden stick that was clearly used to mix the ubiquitous red paint.

messages
messages © Laura Kicey

By the front door on the porch there was a tiny hand written sign that said LEAVE MESSAGE CAN'T HEAR KNOCKING ON DOOR. On the wall on other side of the door, the ever-disturbing message scrawled in huge letters "PREMEDITATED MURDER HELP". It was quite affecting to finally see it up close, as never before.

dormer
dormer © Laura Kicey

XX
XX © Laura Kicey

wind man
wind man © Laura Kicey

tree house
tree house © Laura Kicey

collapse
collapse © Laura Kicey

It appeared as though the bend in the road where PennDOT once attempted to take down Violet's tree to widen the road, had finally taken its vehicular toll on her property- something had hit the corner of her garage with quite a bit of force. What remained was a pile of cinderblocks, each of which bore fragments of words I had photographed long ago.

writer's blocks
writer's blocks © Laura Kicey

The backside of the same building which I had never seen, had a narrative that did not appear anywhere else on her property, where she seems to declare a betrayal by her husband:

MY HUSBAND JACK HOBAUGH AND LEONA OGDEN HIS ? Live at
Walnut St. xxxx DOES A BOARDER REMODEL A HOUSE, GIVE TAXT SERVICE, PAY NORTON's xxxx
UTILITIES, CLEANING AND AMUSEMENT FEE PLUS $30.00/WEEK JUDGE DOWLING CONDONES
PERSECUTES PROSTITUTES


persecutes prostitutes
persecutes prostitutes © Laura Kicey

The third side of this same building appeared to have at one time had a word painted on each individual cinderblock, but was now faded beyond legibility.

quieted
quieted © Laura Kicey

The wall facing the road was essentially unchanged, listing items for sale and reward amounts for different crimes with a bit of graffiti that had been there for years.

I had been concerned that we would be harassed or chased off, but there was only one guy who slowed as he drove by us while we standing on the street looking at the buildings and he shouted "It's really something, isn't it?!!" And it was.

sam hoover

All the buildings seemed like they were on the verge of being completely swallowed by all the thick ivy. Recalling how panicked and alarmed I felt the first time I saw this place, it did my heart good to see quince and magnolia growing over Violet's 'grave'. May she rest in peace.

magnolia
magnolia © Laura Kicey


The light of God surrounds me. The love of God enfolds me. The power of God protects me. Where I am God is. That's my prayer.

-Violet Hobaugh, from one of her past interviews

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Monday, March 08, 2010

coal in the veins

It had been three years - at least - since I had visited coal country, proper and I was beginning to miss it. I had heard some snippets from people who had passed through more recently and in particular I wondered what state Centralia was in these days, aside from perpetually on fire. A springy window of weekend weather was opening before myself and The Goldberg, just in time for our second anniversary (go US!.... for not killing each other. heh) - so the opportunity was seized. We headed directly for Centralia early Saturday morning, greeted by sun... and a great snow-covered barrenness that is Centralia, now.

tides
tides © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

Much to my surprise, poised in the middle of a major mining vortex, there was now a wind farm one of the hills overlooking Centralia. I was suddenly reminded of that country near and dear to my heart - that I ne'er shut up about - Iceland. The rugged terrain, covered in colorful mosses, bleached wood, the wind, intense sun, the earthy sulphurous stench, the deep snow, the shells of small abandoned buildings. The buildings I had visited there in past - an abandoned house and a trailer home - were both gone - as were several of the houses that I recalled were being lived in at the time.

Byrnesville - which feels like an extension of Centralia rather than its own town - was almost entirely unchanged. Like its much publicized neighbor, Byrnesville shares the underground mine fire, which succeeded in driving all of its residents away. The familiar remains of what was once a miners' washhouse were covered in ice and snow and the sun shined strongly though the framework of what was left of the roof.

dotted eyes and crossed tees
dotted eyes and crossed tees © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

nut loaf
nut loaf © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

release
release © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

freezer burn
freezer burn © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

precipitation
precipitation © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

elements
elements © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

blueberried
blueberried © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

The snow was still quite deep in places, but the combination of the warmth of the ground below and the sun had caused it to compact and become so dense we could walk on top of it without sinking in... though occasionally I broke through and ended up in up above my knees and flailing. The snow covered so much of the normally impenetrable brush, we could actually explore a bit more than I could ever reach in past.

your slip is showing
your slip is showing © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

After a quick drive round Shamokin we headed towards Knoebels Grove Amusement Park in Elysburg. Having grown up in Lancaster, we always visited Dutch Wonderland (an amusement park, much less grand than Hershey Park but closer)- so I have never actually seen Knoebels during the season. Visiting in winter, there are no lines, no spastic children just endless, empty kitsch.

in and out
in and out © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

unlocked
unlocked © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

saturday in the park
saturday in the park © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

raise the roof
raise the roof © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

diaper rash
diaper rash © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

making an exit
making an exit © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

The tail end of our journey took us through Girardville into Shenandoah. Girardville running along Route 54, was an eerie, unstable town, seeming as though it could barely stand against the weight of time. More houses abandoned than lived it, all on the verge of collapse. The sun was hanging low but bright in the sky, and by the time we got to Shenandoah, we could scarcely see even to drive around. I caught a glimpse of this amazing old advertising on a restored warehouse just before we started to make our way back home.

never tires
never tires © Laura Kicey, All Rights Reserved.

For our anniversary we decided to try Distrito in University City for dinner. Philly's Iron Chef Garces' hot pink luchador-bedecked loft served us up some fine tapas style haute mexican. After having spent the day feeling sick to my stomach, I wasn't sure I could handle it, but actually I felt much better while sampling all the finery. Tres Leches with passionfruit curd as cure-all? Yes please.

And the big news: I've booked a flight for Stockholm in May. I'll spend 10 days wandering, possible out into the coutryside in the north or to the Archipelago. In the meantime, to get my Scandinavian fix, I will be seeing Sandra in a few short days, while she is in NYC for a movie premiere. Spring is coming, on Swedish wings!

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